Showing posts with label Japan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Japan. Show all posts

Saturday, December 7, 2024

Bicycling Japan 2024: Day 4 (Futami to Beppu via Ozu and Yawatahama)

 Bye Bye town straight out of a Japanese film/anime I mean Futami. I'll miss you.

Rather than signs for moose, people, or bears (oh my!) common in the USA, Japanese road signs have warnings of random crossings of...large waves. This maybe more terrifying.

Change of plans - instead of riding along the flat coast, towards the Ferry to Beppu, we decided to ride down a valley through a town called Ozu (downhill mostly hurraaay). 

Some highlights from Oz(u):

Highlight one: Ozu castle, which was continuously built between the 1300s and late 1500s and restored in the early 2000's. What is really cool is that it was restored using the original wood-working techniques, many of which had to be researched by the carpenters. I thought it was one of the more interesting of the Japanese castle-forts I have been to. The dioramas include dolls based on real people in the town who volunteered as models. 

 
I'm not quite sure what is supposed to be depicted here but maybe it's just for humor?
 
Not one piece of nail is used here!!!

 
Imagine having to go down these stairs to use the toilet in the middle of the night.

Highlight two: We had a snack at a Garyu Brewing, a craft brewery and the lovely bakery across from it. Then headed off to the "old town" area, of Ozu, which has maintained it's look from the Meiji era (mid 1800 to early 1900s). We came across this section that looked like something from my Mom's era though (1940-1950's) which was pretty cool. 


An antique statue of "Peko-chan" a character of the Fujiya company, which still sells confectioneries. 
 
See the yellow sign with red lettering? That would be a cartoon ad for hemorrhoids. Sit on that for a moment.
 
 Random vending machine selling alcohol. 
And of course, America is everywhere...
 
 
Back on the road and through a not so nice tunnel (but still doable with bike), we rode up and down some hills and landed in Yawatahara to take the ferry. 
 
Tunnel biking is never fun.
 
We mis-calculated (again) and arrived just in time to miss the 13:00 ferry so walked around a bit while waiting for the 17:30 ferry to Beppu. Armed with a map, we explored the "business fest" where the main attraction was prince Hamapon and also came across a small family-owned Umebijin Shuzo sake factory (alas I was too busy gabbing to take photos of the factory). 
 
 
A Prince Hamapon citing! (photo by Jason)
The coast guard also had their ship open for tourists so we took the obligatory hat-photo.

 Back onto the ferry, we enjoyed a plush seating situation, drank some sake, and snacked on local mikan (citrus). 

 Our Ferry, the Reimei-Maru
 
She had some cush seating! There's also an area with tatami mats where you can take a nap.

Our fresh buy, some delicious sake and local fruit (apple is actually from Hirai-san our wonderful host at Ushima)
 
...And landed after a few hours to start our next adventure in....Beppu!!!


 

 

Monday, November 11, 2024

Bicycling Japan 2024: Day 3 (Oshima to Futami)

This is technically our "official" start to the bicycle tour. 

Took the first ferry out of Ushima towards Miyakubo and on over the bridge linking the last island to Imabari. 

Our destination today is Futami, a small coastal village that even most Japanese people I spoke to do not know about. 

On the way, we passed through Matsuyama, where the famous 3,000 year-old Dogo Onsen is (note: the building is not B.C. but the hot spring has been used since the Egyptians were stacking bricks to make 3D triangles). 

I mean, how can I pass up the inspiration for the Sento in Miyazaki Hayao's Spirited Away? And yes, TMI, I took a bath and then put my dirty sweaty nasty bike clothes back on. You're welcome. 

Since we were in a bit of a rush, we bought tickets to soak in the plebeian baths rather than the overwhelming other choices of reserved private probably amazing baths on the overwhelming number of floors. But it wasn't busy and at one point I was the only one in there. The lady at the front desk was also super friendly and chatty and I learned her life story in about 10 minutes.

AAANND - we're famous!! Got some roasted sweet potato, my fave street food and started chatting with the owner and he asked if he could photo us. Lo and behold, we are now on his Instagram. Ignore the part that says we're from Germany, it's all the same, Western Europe, right?

 
This one did not dissapoint! Yummy yaki-imo.
 
On the way Jason saw a "Caliofrnia BBQ" sign so curiosity got him and he stopped by. Turned out the owner is from San Diego. Small world, or not?
After 80km we made it! Futami. I very cute coastal city. We stayed at hotel Popeye, a super retro guest house overlooking the ocean. 



I'm not gonna lie, the outside isn't anything to call home about but the interior is super cute. 

Quiz for born post 1990 people: What is this?? 1. A safe, 2. A refrigerator, 3. An alien item that landed outside the hotel, 4. A communication device
 
 

The highlight though, was when we went to check out the Futami train station which was literally next door. When we went, the old guy told us to come back in 30 min because the "tourist train" was going to come by at 17:30. Curious, we returned. 
It was a serious festive affair. People were coming from all over the neighborhood, they had flags, a bubble machine (yes), cats and dogs in costume, music, you name it. 

 


Embracing the local-vibes, literally
 
I'm so confused but it was really fun. When I asked if it was some rare occurance this train was passing by, the answer was no, it comes four times a day. Twice a day, the neighbors get together to fanfare the passing train. No words, y'all. 
 
Also the train station itself is special. I've never seen anything like it. There are live mascots (cats and dogs) - two of which were there. 

 

Truly special, Futami. If you ever pass by, do stop and walk around. The people are super cute and friendly and wonderful.

Sunday, November 10, 2024

Bicycling Japan 2024: Day 2-3 (Ushima to Imabari & Back)

I'll be staying on my uncle's remote island for several days, during which I promised myself I wouldn't be cycling. But...never say never. 

Day 2

There's only 15 people living on the island we're on, so of course there's no grocery store. So the next morning, we ferried it to the next island, did a little essentials shopping and then asked the store clerk if there were any cafes nearby. To which (bless my people, really, they're like beyond nice) she left the cash register, walked out the store with me to show me how to get to the place.

Biked to Cafe Shozan, and enjoyed some yum coffees and ended our mini cycling day. 

Day 3

Jason was heading off to a conference in Imabari and once again, I got convinced to cycle with him from Miyakubo Port (Oshima) and over the bridge. 

It was actually not too bad. What we thought would take 1.5 hours only took roughly one hour. 

Bridge connecting Oshima to Imabari
Cycling on the dedicated cycle lane.

We dropped by the the bicycling information center to make sure there were lockers to store luggage (yes), and ate amazing curry bread at the Little Mermaid bakery.

 Checked out the outside of Imabari Castle...

... and met up with Jason's colleague at our initial cafe destination...only to find it is closed every Wednesday and first Tuesday (today!) of every month. Arg. After several attempts, we finally came across an unassuming cafe Chiru Chiru, in a very sad covered shopping area, which turned out to be very charming and retro. It's run by a (likely) 80+ year-old lady, and there were three to four 77+ regulars hanging out.

Post cafe, we checked out the Imabari Towel Museum, since why not? 

Armed with a map from the information center, we set off.

I'm going to take a little detour here to discuss the "Japanese way" of directions. Street signs don't really exist here in Japan (big cities like Tokyo and Osaka kind of cater for Westerners and do label their major arteries but really, there's not much). I'm not sure if maps truly exist. Or rather, I'm not sure if the majority of the population knows how to use maps. 

The way Japanese provide directions is like so:
"You see that red awning there? You're going to take the street after. Then go three streets over, make a left at the green medicine sign. Keep going, you should see a udon restaurant to your left. There, you're gonna go a little ways and make a right. Then past the..."

 

Can you find the street name? Answer: it doesn't exist! 

So of course, the map we got provided at the Information Center was...not intuitive. I tried asking a kind old lady for directions to "highway 390" and tried showing her the map. Not only did she refuse to look at it (I was trying to shove the map in her hands and she vehemently waved it away), she didn't know what I was talking about. 

"Highway what?"

"390"

"I don't know what you're talking about. Where are you trying to go?"

"The Towel Museum" 

"Oh! That's in the direction of Asakura. You don't want to go that way, you want to go that way. Towards the mountains."

ok.... Mountains. Except there are like, mountains surrounding us. 

After several wrong turns, we reached our destination:

In the middle of the mountains, a chateau - I mean towel museum.

As with all Japanese, I too am obsessed with Moomin Troll. So of course, I don't ask questions when there's a big random Moomin statue and just bee-line for a photo op.

Not quite sure if I have words, but it was an odd place. What I will say is that it had the world's best soft serve ice cream. Like WOW. 


I then made the trek backwards but cheated and took the speed ferry from Miyakubo to Tomoura, then biked a bit across the island to Miyakubo and the ferry back to Ushima. 
...and taking advantage of evening sans vegetarian husband, made myself a trad Japanese dinner.




 


Friday, November 8, 2024

Bicycling Japan 2024: Day 1 ("accidental" tour along Shimanami Kaido to Ushima)

Day One

 
We didn't get the Japan Rail Pass this year since it was an arm and a leg but this means we got to take a Nozomi. Photo by Jason.

This should technically be Day Zero point one. Because we're on our way to my uncle's place on an island along the Shimanami Kaido (which we did 11 years ago). Since I'm in my 40's and wanted a comfortable travel experience, I carefully mapped out an elaborate route via bullet train (to Fukuyama), local bus (Shimanami Liner), and a ferry BY HAND (Dear Japan, as the epitome of technology, I'm confused why several of your travel schedules are still IN PDF FORM and don't reliably show up on route planners. As a person with only a 6th grade Japanese reading level, and with a recently diagnosed issue of focusing on small details too much, it literally took me HOURS to plan this. Just saying. Sincerely, -Yumi in Mid-life crisis). 

It was to take roughly 4 hours but I'd arrive dry and breathing normal in time to meet the house minder who would be waiting for us on the island. 

As a public service, in case anyone reading this would be interested in taking the ferry from Miyakubo-Ushima-Oura, here's a schedule as of 8 November 2024. 
 

But no. As we're about to get off the bullet train, Jason turns to me with puppy eyes: "Yumi, it's so nice outside. Let's bike the rest of the way! I took 5 minutes to map the route. We can make it in 2 hours. We'll have plenty of time."

Famous last words. 

 
To you strapping 20/30 year olds this probably looks exciting. Doable, even. To my 42-year old "sedentary life style" self who was supposed to be sitting in an air-conditioned bus, not so much. If you are curious we would ride from the "You are here" red circle to station 6 in the blue rectangle.

Little does she know as she pigs out on that tarako musubi that in 70 minutes she will be cursing the stars and sobbing and looking a big(er) mess. Ironically, I'm sitting on the "See you Again" side of the sign. Photo by Jason.

Two grueling hours later, we're still 15km (9miles) from our destination and there are only 2 ferries left.  I now know what it means when your lungs feel like they are going to explode. How was sweating with goose bumps?? At one point we thought of getting a taxi but I (yeah, me) said "no! we keep going!"

One of the bridges. Looks majestic? Not after you climbed the switch back leading to it like your life depended on it. 

Jason as he tries to tell me "see, not so bad, right?" uh-huh. 

The bicycle switchback trail way up to one of the bridges. Do not be fooled by the flat-ness, there was no way I was going to snap a picture on an incline.

...And we missed the ferry. By five minutes. Of course.

But, the universe was somehow looking down upon us because there was a real-life working well maintained (and clean. Clean! I could lick the receiver. I did not) payphone from which I called our very kind house-minder, who handed us the keys as we stepped off the last ferry of the day and he stepped on it to go back to his home. 

Was I wishing I was Dr. Who and could be whisked away to a soft couch of yesteryear? Maybe.

Aw, look at those cats. They were just after our curry chips, which were disgusting. They wouldn't even eat it.
 
The lovely ferry towards the last destination...of the day. Photo by Jason.

Off to a great start, this cycling trip. Off to a great start...