Bicycling Japan 2024: Day 3 (Oshima to Futami)

This is technically our "official" start to the bicycle tour. 

Took the first ferry out of Ushima towards Miyakubo and on over the bridge linking the last island to Imabari. 

Our destination today is Futami, a small coastal village that even most Japanese people I spoke to do not know about. 

On the way, we passed through Matsuyama, where the famous 3,000 year-old Dogo Onsen is (note: the building is not B.C. but the hot spring has been used since the Egyptians were stacking bricks to make 3D triangles). 

I mean, how can I pass up the inspiration for the Sento in Miyazaki Hayao's Spirited Away? And yes, TMI, I took a bath and then put my dirty sweaty nasty bike clothes back on. You're welcome. 

Since we were in a bit of a rush, we bought tickets to soak in the plebeian baths rather than the overwhelming other choices of reserved private probably amazing baths on the overwhelming number of floors. But it wasn't busy and at one point I was the only one in there. The lady at the front desk was also super friendly and chatty and I learned her life story in about 10 minutes.

AAANND - we're famous!! Got some roasted sweet potato, my fave street food and started chatting with the owner and he asked if he could photo us. Lo and behold, we are now on his Instagram. Ignore the part that says we're from Germany, it's all the same, Western Europe, right?

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A post shared by やきいもブラザーズ【愛媛県伊予郡砥部町】 (@yakiimo.bros)

 

This one did not dissapoint! Yummy yaki-imo.

 

On the way Jason saw a "Caliofrnia BBQ" sign so curiosity got him and he stopped by. Turned out the owner is from San Diego. Small world, or not?

After 80km we made it! Futami. I very cute coastal city. We stayed at hotel Popeye, a super retro guest house overlooking the ocean. 

I'm not gonna lie, the outside isn't anything to call home about but the interior is super cute. 

Quiz for born post 1990 people: What is this?? 1. A safe, 2. A refrigerator, 3. An alien item that landed outside the hotel, 4. A communication device

 

 

The highlight though, was when we went to check out the Futami train station which was literally next door. When we went, the old guy told us to come back in 30 min because the "tourist train" was going to come by at 17:30. Curious, we returned. 

It was a serious festive affair. People were coming from all over the neighborhood, they had flags, a bubble machine (yes), cats and dogs in costume, music, you name it. 

 

 

Embracing the local-vibes, literally

 

I'm so confused but it was really fun. When I asked if it was some rare occurance this train was passing by, the answer was no, it comes four times a day. Twice a day, the neighbors get together to fanfare the passing train. No words, y'all. 

 

Also the train station itself is special. I've never seen anything like it. There are live mascots (cats and dogs) - two of which were there. 

 

Truly special, Futami. If you ever pass by, do stop and walk around. The people are super cute and friendly and wonderful.