Bicycling Japan 2024: Beppu, Baby.

 

Welcome to "Stove Hell". Yes, I'm ready to be cooked alive (?).

I feel Kyushu and Shikoku don't get enough love. I mean, sure, Kyoto, Nara, Tokyo, Osaka, Hiroshima, Mt. Fuji, Buddhism, Ghibli, all things cultural and famous and defining about Japan...you find them all on Honshu. But the friendly, nice, talkative, fun, people? They're in Kyushu and Shikoku. 

Shikoku has the Shimanami Kaido of course but also the Shikoku Junrei (we saw several pilgrims in old-school Japanese pilgrim garb on our bike ride), the Murakami Kaizoku, and towels (I mean, they're important!).

Kyushu is special to me for many reasons, one because my Mom grew up in Fukuoka. But it's also the mecca of pottery and...onsen. 

To me, Onsen is the word I like linking most to Japan. Forget Konmari, Zen, or Wabisabi. Because let's face it, Japanese are one of the most stressed out people in the world. Imperfection and half-assery is most often frowned upon. And not sure if you've ventured into a Japanese person's house, but for those of you who have, you know why Marie Kondo had her start there (and it's pronounced Ma-ri-eh for the record, not Ma-ree like the Western name).

But the Japanese truely love onsen and baths. We Japanese will travel to a beautiful serene mountainous village not to hike or take in the nature or to meditate, but to hole up in a rickety building to bathe multiple times a day (ok, the buildings are typically pretty nice And the hot springs are often outdoors).

So here we are in Beppu. A town basically built on a hot spring. The whole place is steamy and slightly sulfer-y and...amazing. 

The city is literally steaming. 

 

You can stay at one of the many wonderful ryokans (we stayed at Miyukiya, a super funky ryokan run by a lovely 83-year old lady) and enjoy the onsen there, or you can just walk around the neighborhood and take a dip in the several "local onsen" for 100 yen (for 2024 around 0,60 EUR/60 cents) and free "feet onsens."

One of the local onsens where you can bathe for 100 yen. This one does not allow soap, so you just rinse yourself with the spring water and enjoy the hot water with some locals. Jason's bathing buddy was 100-years old!! My lady buddy was (only) 86. 

What's better than free? A free foot steaming experience. Oh yes. (photo by Jason)

I'm not quire sure what this is but I think it's a pipe to transfer hot spring water. And they're not lying about the "healthy minerals in the water."

 

After bathing a couple times during the early afternoon, we headed to a "Hell round" in the mountains to visit the hot spring sources.

Apparently Beppu has to thank this man, the "pika pika ojisan" (literally, "shiny uncle," real name Kumahachi Aburaya, which to me still seems unreal) for it's fame as a tourist destination. He developed the "Hells tour" of the natural springs in the mountains and worked hard to develop various creative approaches to making Beppu attractive as a destination. (photo by Jason)

 

Modern art? Modern nature art, for sure. A very cool mineral effect I saw in one of the "Beppu Hell" holes.

A bed for an Oni (Japanese ogre).

Not dyed!! That is all el natural.

This was clearly translated pre-AI. 

 

We then explored downtown Beppu, where Jason paid respects at the Tengu shrine (for those of you unfamiliar with Tengu, they are very curious mischievous demons that in Japanese folk lore come from "elsewhere." They are typically illustrated with wings and wearing very tall geta. There are many hypotheses of their origin. Wikipedia mentions Garuda, the Indian god. Other's say maybe it's early Westerners).

 

There was also a really cool set of stores selling local crafts (coffee + stuff) but alas, they were all closed (Mondays are typically Japan's Sunday).  

We also discovered a really quaint cafe, Nakamura Kissaten, which (literally) only offers coffee or hot chocolate (you can get the coffee cold or hot). The "coffee master" is an 84-year old man who will prepare a delicious filter cup for you. The hostess, his daughter was also super awesome and we chatted for quite awhile (she lived in Indonesia for a year and a half). They have an amazing collection of fancy porcelain cups (which the hostess picks out for each customer depending on what she feels they may like .

A sample of the amazing collection of fancy cups at Nakamura Kissaten (photo by Jason).

Beppu is actually a rather young city, celebrating it's 100-year anniversaty since official establishment (photo by Jason).

 

Unfortunately, the jazz bar Jason really wanted to go to was closed, so we ended the night sampling some local cuisine. Dangojiru is a Oita Prefecture staple, although the "dango" was more like thick noodles and quite tasty. (Shown on upper left of photo below).

 

Bicycling Japan 2024: Day 4 (Futami to Beppu via Ozu and Yawatahama)

 Bye Bye town straight out of a Japanese film/anime I mean Futami. I'll miss you.

Rather than signs for moose, people, or bears (oh my!) common in the USA, Japanese road signs have warnings of random crossings of...large waves. This maybe more terrifying.

Change of plans - instead of riding along the flat coast, towards the Ferry to Beppu, we decided to ride down a valley through a town called Ozu (downhill mostly hurraaay). 

Some highlights from Oz(u):

Highlight one: Ozu castle, which was continuously built between the 1300s and late 1500s and restored in the early 2000's. What is really cool is that it was restored using the original wood-working techniques, many of which had to be researched by the carpenters. I thought it was one of the more interesting of the Japanese castle-forts I have been to. The dioramas include dolls based on real people in the town who volunteered as models. 

 

I'm not quite sure what is supposed to be depicted here but maybe it's just for humor?

 

Not one piece of nail is used here!!!

 

Imagine having to go down these stairs to use the toilet in the middle of the night.

Highlight two: We had a snack at a Garyu Brewing, a craft brewery and the lovely bakery across from it. Then headed off to the "old town" area, of Ozu, which has maintained it's look from the Meiji era (mid 1800 to early 1900s). We came across this section that looked like something from my Mom's era though (1940-1950's) which was pretty cool. 

An antique statue of "Peko-chan" a character of the Fujiya company, which still sells confectioneries. 

 

See the yellow sign with red lettering? That would be a cartoon ad for hemorrhoids. Sit on that for a moment.

 

 Random vending machine selling alcohol. 

And of course, America is everywhere...
 

 

Back on the road and through a not so nice tunnel (but still doable with bike), we rode up and down some hills and landed in Yawatahara to take the ferry. 

 

Tunnel biking is never fun.

 

We mis-calculated (again) and arrived just in time to miss the 13:00 ferry so walked around a bit while waiting for the 17:30 ferry to Beppu. Armed with a map, we explored the "business fest" where the main attraction was prince Hamapon and also came across a small family-owned Umebijin Shuzo sake factory (alas I was too busy gabbing to take photos of the factory). 

 

 

A Prince Hamapon citing! (photo by Jason)

The coast guard also had their ship open for tourists so we took the obligatory hat-photo.

 Back onto the ferry, we enjoyed a plush seating situation, drank some sake, and snacked on local mikan (citrus). 

 Our Ferry, the Reimei-Maru

 

She had some cush seating! There's also an area with tatami mats where you can take a nap.

Our fresh buy, some delicious sake and local fruit (apple is actually from Hirai-san our wonderful host at Ushima)

 

...And landed after a few hours to start our next adventure in....Beppu!!!

 

 

Bicycling Japan 2024: Day 3 (Oshima to Futami)

This is technically our "official" start to the bicycle tour. 

Took the first ferry out of Ushima towards Miyakubo and on over the bridge linking the last island to Imabari. 

Our destination today is Futami, a small coastal village that even most Japanese people I spoke to do not know about. 

On the way, we passed through Matsuyama, where the famous 3,000 year-old Dogo Onsen is (note: the building is not B.C. but the hot spring has been used since the Egyptians were stacking bricks to make 3D triangles). 

I mean, how can I pass up the inspiration for the Sento in Miyazaki Hayao's Spirited Away? And yes, TMI, I took a bath and then put my dirty sweaty nasty bike clothes back on. You're welcome. 

Since we were in a bit of a rush, we bought tickets to soak in the plebeian baths rather than the overwhelming other choices of reserved private probably amazing baths on the overwhelming number of floors. But it wasn't busy and at one point I was the only one in there. The lady at the front desk was also super friendly and chatty and I learned her life story in about 10 minutes.

AAANND - we're famous!! Got some roasted sweet potato, my fave street food and started chatting with the owner and he asked if he could photo us. Lo and behold, we are now on his Instagram. Ignore the part that says we're from Germany, it's all the same, Western Europe, right?

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by やきいもブラザーズ【愛媛県伊予郡砥部町】 (@yakiimo.bros)

 

This one did not dissapoint! Yummy yaki-imo.

 

On the way Jason saw a "Caliofrnia BBQ" sign so curiosity got him and he stopped by. Turned out the owner is from San Diego. Small world, or not?

After 80km we made it! Futami. I very cute coastal city. We stayed at hotel Popeye, a super retro guest house overlooking the ocean. 

I'm not gonna lie, the outside isn't anything to call home about but the interior is super cute. 

Quiz for born post 1990 people: What is this?? 1. A safe, 2. A refrigerator, 3. An alien item that landed outside the hotel, 4. A communication device

 

 

The highlight though, was when we went to check out the Futami train station which was literally next door. When we went, the old guy told us to come back in 30 min because the "tourist train" was going to come by at 17:30. Curious, we returned. 

It was a serious festive affair. People were coming from all over the neighborhood, they had flags, a bubble machine (yes), cats and dogs in costume, music, you name it. 

 

 

Embracing the local-vibes, literally

 

I'm so confused but it was really fun. When I asked if it was some rare occurance this train was passing by, the answer was no, it comes four times a day. Twice a day, the neighbors get together to fanfare the passing train. No words, y'all. 

 

Also the train station itself is special. I've never seen anything like it. There are live mascots (cats and dogs) - two of which were there. 

 

Truly special, Futami. If you ever pass by, do stop and walk around. The people are super cute and friendly and wonderful.

Bicycling Japan 2024: Day 2-3 (Ushima to Imabari & Back)

I'll be staying on my uncle's remote island for several days, during which I promised myself I wouldn't be cycling. But...never say never. 

Day 2

There's only 15 people living on the island we're on, so of course there's no grocery store. So the next morning, we ferried it to the next island, did a little essentials shopping and then asked the store clerk if there were any cafes nearby. To which (bless my people, really, they're like beyond nice) she left the cash register, walked out the store with me to show me how to get to the place.

Biked to Cafe Shozan, and enjoyed some yum coffees and ended our mini cycling day. 

Day 3

Jason was heading off to a conference in Imabari and once again, I got convinced to cycle with him from Miyakubo Port (Oshima) and over the bridge. 

It was actually not too bad. What we thought would take 1.5 hours only took roughly one hour. 

Bridge connecting Oshima to Imabari

Cycling on the dedicated cycle lane.

We dropped by the the bicycling information center to make sure there were lockers to store luggage (yes), and ate amazing curry bread at the Little Mermaid bakery.

 Checked out the outside of Imabari Castle...

... and met up with Jason's colleague at our initial cafe destination...only to find it is closed every Wednesday and first Tuesday (today!) of every month. Arg. After several attempts, we finally came across an unassuming cafe Chiru Chiru, in a very sad covered shopping area, which turned out to be very charming and retro. It's run by a (likely) 80+ year-old lady, and there were three to four 77+ regulars hanging out.

Post cafe, we checked out the Imabari Towel Museum, since why not? 

Armed with a map from the information center, we set off.

I'm going to take a little detour here to discuss the "Japanese way" of directions. Street signs don't really exist here in Japan (big cities like Tokyo and Osaka kind of cater for Westerners and do label their major arteries but really, there's not much). I'm not sure if maps truly exist. Or rather, I'm not sure if the majority of the population knows how to use maps. 

The way Japanese provide directions is like so:
"You see that red awning there? You're going to take the street after. Then go three streets over, make a left at the green medicine sign. Keep going, you should see a udon restaurant to your left. There, you're gonna go a little ways and make a right. Then past the..."

 

Can you find the street name? Answer: it doesn't exist! 

So of course, the map we got provided at the Information Center was...not intuitive. I tried asking a kind old lady for directions to "highway 390" and tried showing her the map. Not only did she refuse to look at it (I was trying to shove the map in her hands and she vehemently waved it away), she didn't know what I was talking about. 

"Highway what?"

"390"

"I don't know what you're talking about. Where are you trying to go?"

"The Towel Museum" 

"Oh! That's in the direction of Asakura. You don't want to go that way, you want to go that way. Towards the mountains."

ok.... Mountains. Except there are like, mountains surrounding us. 

After several wrong turns, we reached our destination:

In the middle of the mountains, a chateau - I mean towel museum.

As with all Japanese, I too am obsessed with Moomin Troll. So of course, I don't ask questions when there's a big random Moomin statue and just bee-line for a photo op.

Not quite sure if I have words, but it was an odd place. What I will say is that it had the world's best soft serve ice cream. Like WOW. 

I then made the trek backwards but cheated and took the speed ferry from Miyakubo to Tomoura, then biked a bit across the island to Miyakubo and the ferry back to Ushima. 

...and taking advantage of evening sans vegetarian husband, made myself a trad Japanese dinner.